A Curation of 5 Work-Ready Palettes

I had the pleasure of sitting down with seasoned makeup artist and co-founder of ESUM cosmetics, Alphonse Wiebelt. He's seen and done it all and yet he's just getting started. From glamming your favorite A-list celebrities to founding his own cosmetics company, the beauty world is in a constant state of awe when it comes to anything Wiebelt puts his magic touch on. His latest launch of work-ready palettes is no exception! While opening up about his inspiration behind the collection, we got a glimpse into his world, muses, and some insight as to how we got here.

It’s always admirable to watch someone whose destiny was clear from the start to everyone except him. Starting at the very beginning, Wiebelt was always drawn toward creative expression, the arts, and makeup. I had him walk me through the origins of his career and present-day endeavors, and let’s just say…we’re very excited about the future of ESUM cosmetics.

Walk us through your career, how did you first start doing makeup?

It was definitely painting on canvases with oils that eventually gave way to trying out eyeliner in my teens and practicing makeup on my mom. I discovered pretty quickly I had a real knack for it, and more importantly an interest.

What is some advice you wish you heard when you were just starting out as a MUA?

You will be able to handle whatever the universe puts in front of you.

How do you define beauty?

Beauty surrounds us, we just have to open our eyes to experience it and be willing to share it.

What was your favorite part about working with clients?

There is a moment after the makeup is done and the client takes their first look. It's that gleam in their eyes when they see themselves and they feel truly beautiful. That’s always been the best part for me.  

How did you build your client roster?

I never intentionally worked toward becoming a celebrity makeup artist. I had a handful of high-profile clients I worked with that came my way naturally. I would like to think it was my artistry and good manners that my mother said would pay off one day!

What is a lesson you learned as a celebrity MUA?

The talent should always be seen before the makeup. Early on, I was working on Brooke Shields and she was so stunning that I did not want to put anything on her but she wanted red lipstick. I paired the red lip with mascara, and added cream bronzer mixed with a little moisturizer and she looked amazing. But most importantly, she still looked like Brooke.

What has been a pinch-me moment from your career?

There have been so many moments and I am forever grateful for each one. It’s hard to narrow it down to just one moment, from assisting Kevyn Aucoin, which had been a long-term goal of mine, to applying Linda Evangelists lip color, and touching up Naomi Cambell between changes, I will forever be grateful for the surreal opportunities I’ve had the fortune of taking part in. However, there is one moment that takes the cake, and that would be moving our company from our home office to our studio. Seeing our team’s excitement over the brand’s growth will be a moment I cherish forever.

When did you know you wanted to do makeup for a living, and when did that change to wanting to be on the business and development side of the industry?

Early on, I loved makeup as a medium of expression, but it was collaborating with others to create these moments captured forever, in both life and film that fueled my passion. Editorial & fashion work was the best genre, along with a good night out in NY with my MUSE Dominique. I have always been intrigued by the “how” and “why not” which led me to mix my own mediums to create the products I needed. I guess I would have to chalk it up to the early days of mixing Vaseline and loose pigments with wax and tinted toothpaste - that’s what opened the door.  

Tell me a bit more about Dominique, your muse. She seems to have had a lasting impact on your artistry, in what ways has she inspired your creativity?

Dominique will forever be one of my nearest and dearest friends. We met back in college when we worked across from each other in the cosmetics department. I’ll never forget the day we met, she was wearing Estee Lauder Russian-Red lip color with matching nails and a coppery smokey eye. It was an instant love affair. We both lived for fashion, art, beauty and of course playing dress-up. When we moved to New York she was my biggest fan and first supporter. We would try out every look on her just as long as it was glamorous. She was the ultimate chameleon with a flair for the dramatics. Between the makeup, wigs, heels, and a hot glue gun there was never a dull moment.

Is there a makeup trend you’re currently into or would like to try out?

If there’s one thing I learned it's trends come and go and then come back around - again. Nothing will ever be truly out of style, but I am loving the blushed-eye look with a bold lip.

 What is your best-kept beauty tip?

It’s basic - moisturize & SPF daily - whatever you use on your face, also apply it to your chest and hands.

Is there a makeup product that you find yourself reaching for over and over, regardless of the client, to help elevate your look to the next level?

The EMBROYLISSE Lait Creme Concentrate! I use it in so many different ways. From a stand-alone moisturizer to mixing it with foundation or cream foundations, it’s super versatile. It’s a great body moisturizer and makeup remover; the perfect multi-functional product. Also, I can’t go without B3 Matte Lip Balm. It’s a must-have. I use it alone for lip prep, or I mix it with lip pencils to create a sheer tint. I've even used it as a balm over eye pencils to create a subtle glossed smudge.  

 I understand palette 2, INTENSITY, was designed with three different formulas, satin, chromatic, and metallic. What was the intention behind this diversity in formulation?

Yes, that is correct! All reflective shades are not created the same. Sometimes a soft satin finish is better suited for a makeup look seen in daylight. Whereas a chromatic or metallic finish can give a more fashion-forward look and really intensify features. It’s pure magic seeing these mediums at work.

Is there a beauty trend you wouldn’t try?

Trends are fun, but the one I see happening that needs to err on the side of caution is the depotting of makeup. I depot my cream products into smaller containers, but putting heat on a product to melt the glue that keeps it in its compact alters the color and breaks down the formula. It's just never the same. Also, powder mediums are pressed in a very specific way to not crush the reflective pearls or to ensure the proper payoff - so trying to repress a broken shadow or blush is almost impossible, not to mention a waste of investment. 

What is your philosophy on product development?

Begin with the need, then be the solution. We approach development based on needs, specifically those of professional makeup artists. Our purpose is to add a level of ease to their application process, so wherever we see a need or gap in the market we become the solution.

I know the ESUM is just getting started standing on its own and gaining traction. What is next for ESUM? Can we expect new products, shades, etc?

Absolutely - we always have products we are working on or re-working. We usually launch products twice a year which is the perfect cadence for our company right now. This is the biggest launch we have done in 12 years since we began with our brush collection. While it is only 5 palettes, each shade in every palette was subject to such a long, scrutinous, and meticulous process with the added responsibility of developing in the most ethical way.  

Why did you choose to manufacture in the EU as opposed to other countries?

The EU is known as the “golden standard” in the beauty industry when it comes to innovation and ingredients used in makeup. The EU has an ongoing, constantly evolving list of 1,328 chemicals that are currently banned from production. These chemicals are linked to cancer, genetic mutation, or are suspected of reproductive harm. Contrasted by the U.S., which in comparison has only banned or restricted 11 chemicals from cosmetics by the FDA. We manufacture in EU to ensure we’re only developing the safest, most up-to-date formulations.

I want to talk a little bit about your palette design. It’s professional, functional, and sleek. What were the most important features when designing this mold?

That was the intention! These palettes were designed with professional makeup artists in mind. So a big bulky palette just wouldn’t do. Having a sleek, small palette was vital because as a makeup artist oftentimes you have a very minimal workspace to spread out. Having these palettes be stackable, reorganizable with the magnetic insert, and travel well to keep the product safe was a no-brainer.

Will the palettes be refillable?

Yes, stay tuned! We will be offering refills for a select batch of colors.

What would be your advice for someone looking to get their start in the industry to become an established MUA like yourself?

I would say give yourself time to develop and diversify your skills. Surround yourself with positive and like-minded individuals, you will grow together and be each other’s support system. It does not happen overnight, but you can make it happen!