How To Shape Tips & Techniques
Posted by Samantha Troy on Apr 17th 2023
Calling all shape-shifters - or should we say face-shapers! You’ve heard of contouring and underpainting, now let’s talk shaping. Shaping is the new wave when it comes to accentuating and structuring your features. Offering a less dramatic effect than typical contouring, shaping is all about enhancing what’s already there and following the natural curvature of your facial anatomy. The beauty of shaping is you can build coverage, meaning your makeup can be as intense or natural as you deem fit for your own features. Our Artistry Palette No8 STRUCTURE is here to help you accomplish just that.
So what is shaping, exactly?
Shaping is a more approachable, natural take on typical contouring. While traditional contouring has grey undertones to cast a shadow, shaping has warm, bronzy undertones which in turn hugs the line of your facial visage. Think of shaping as a way to get your features to recede into the natural structure of your face while giving prominence to your innate features. It offers a soft-sculpt which subsequently adds dimension while still being suitable for everyday wear.
A good rule of thumb when determining where to shape is to first stand under overhead lighting. Wherever the light naturally casts will outline the best placement for use of highlighter on your unique structure; like the bridge of the nose, the top of your cheeks, and your cupids bow, otherwise known as your high points. You'll want to shape along your cheek, where your forhead meets your hairline, and jaw. However, the nose and brow bone can be shaped as well. It’ll take some trial and error to find the best placement for your face so don’t be afraid to play around to discover the best technique for you!
For optimum shaping results, select a color 1-2 shades darker than your natural skin tone. Our pressed powder formula is designed with the contour connoisseurs and face-shifters in mind and comes with 5 tones of shapers. It’s crafted to add dimension while complimenting all skin complexions from fair to deep, with a matte skin finish. With versatility at the forefront of our design, these hues can be used to bronze, color correct, and shape the face.
Texture is everything when it comes to achieving a sculpted look! You’ll want to always reach for a product with a matte finish and shy away from anything with shimmer or shine. Reflective finishes will cast back the light, creating the opposite effect, and will instead highlight the areas you want to create a sunken-in effect on. A matte finish will help your strokes naturally melt into your skin with an effortless finish. The goal is to create symmetry between your features. Here are some easy tips and techniques to help you achieve the dimension and chiseled finish you’re yearning for!
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
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Always use a primer, facial oil, or moisturizer to prep your skin before applying any makeup, as it’ll provide a more effortless blend.
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Once your base layer of concealer and foundation is applied, go in using the STRUCTURE palette with a shade 1-2 tones darker than your skin. Apply the pressed powder formula with our ESUM P55 Large Angle Contour Brush for a fuller, more structured glam.
- For a more natural, daytime finish, opt for the ESUM T59 Brush. This will give you the most natural shaping for a soft-sculpted look.
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Picture a giant three on the side of your face starting from your hairline, landing under your cheekbone, and rounding out at your jawbone/chin. Follow this outline when applying your powder shaper. Repeat on the opposite side of your face.
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Always blend upwards! Dragging your product downwards can create the illusion of drooping.
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The STRUCTURE palette can be used as a bronzer to bring shape around the frame of your face! Select a hue slightly darker than your skin tone and use the X57 - Large Dome Diffuser Brush to blend. Add color to the high points of your face.
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Don’t love the look of blush? Give your face some color to avoid looking washed out. Use the ESUM V50 - Angle Blush Brush and let the expert angles flow into the hollow of your cheekbone and round it out on your forehead in a “C” like motion. Repeat on the other side.